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Author Topic: Mayfly BC30 review on the Gear page  (Read 902 times)
mayfly
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« Reply #30 on: July 03, 2010, 06:13:34 pm »

Here's an image

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Max
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« Reply #31 on: July 03, 2010, 06:47:52 pm »

Perhaps a slightly different design for the limited runs?
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Cagey
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« Reply #32 on: July 03, 2010, 07:33:41 pm »

Here's the drawings

Ok, thanks. Got the picture, too. Smaller than I thought it would be.

Now what?
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mayfly
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« Reply #33 on: July 03, 2010, 07:44:49 pm »

I've got two completed chassis on the bench.  How about we do two boxes in some kind of groovy wood finish but with 1/2" front and back panels?  The depth of the overall box will have to be increased by 1/2 as well.  One thing that is not captured on the drawings is that the faceplate adds 1/16 of an inch to the depth of the chassis - so overall the chassis is 8 1/8" deep.

Once done, just fire them back up here and I'll do the assembly.  If you like I can send down the handles and the nickel plated expanded metal pieces for you to install.

Clear as mud?
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Marko
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« Reply #34 on: July 03, 2010, 07:50:07 pm »

Very Exciting!!!
I want one too! Wink
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Cagey
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« Reply #35 on: July 03, 2010, 08:42:05 pm »

I've got two completed chassis on the bench.  How about we do two boxes in some kind of groovy wood finish but with 1/2" front and back panels?  The depth of the overall box will have to be increased by 1/2 as well.  One thing that is not captured on the drawings is that the faceplate adds 1/16 of an inch to the depth of the chassis - so overall the chassis is 8 1/8" deep.

Once done, just fire them back up here and I'll do the assembly.  If you like I can send down the handles and the nickel plated expanded metal pieces for you to install.

Clear as mud?

Well...

What would you consider a "groovy" wood? I've got some nice oak and walnut both here now, but have access to all sorts of stuff. You want the whole thing done in hardwood, or just the face, or just the carcass and do a complementary face cover in some sort of tolex-type material? What kind of finish on the hardwood?

According to the drawing, the thing IS 8 1/8" deep. Then, judging by the picture, the front panel is inset a bit, which is not shown on the drawing. For the record, I think it'll make for a better finished look if it is inset a bit.  Also, I'd like to make it just a tad wider, maybe an inch or so, to match up to standard rack width cabinets. Finally, what about the corners? Metal corner protectors kinda take away from the high-end look of a hardwood cabinet, but without them moving the amps around will beat the hell out of exposed wooden corners. What do you think?

Finally, there are no mounting holes called out for the chassis. Do you just run some wood screws in through some ears, or what? Is there a chassis drawing available?

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knucklehead G
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« Reply #36 on: July 03, 2010, 11:14:21 pm »

Any chance this could be tweaked into a bass head? Like the Ashdown Little Bastard or something, 30W all-tube bass.

Tube noob here, so forgive if that is a horribly silly question.
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JaySwear
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« Reply #37 on: July 03, 2010, 11:33:09 pm »

i really really need a new amp... maybe i better start a CageyFly / MayCage amp fund after this next warmoth?
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Cagey
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« Reply #38 on: July 04, 2010, 12:05:53 am »

Any chance this could be tweaked into a bass head? Like the Ashdown Little Bastard or something, 30W all-tube bass.

Tube noob here, so forgive if that is a horribly silly question.

There's really very little difference between a guitar and bass amp. The tone stack might get tweaked a little bit to change the range, and usually the output is much higher. Humans don't hear low frequencies as easily, so they need to be louder. That's why you'll see the guitar player with a 50 watt amp while the bass player will have 200-300 watts burning, at least with tubes. With solid state, the power will often be even higher than that.
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mayfly
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« Reply #39 on: July 04, 2010, 05:45:25 am »

I've got two completed chassis on the bench.  How about we do two boxes in some kind of groovy wood finish but with 1/2" front and back panels?  The depth of the overall box will have to be increased by 1/2 as well.  One thing that is not captured on the drawings is that the faceplate adds 1/16 of an inch to the depth of the chassis - so overall the chassis is 8 1/8" deep.

Once done, just fire them back up here and I'll do the assembly.  If you like I can send down the handles and the nickel plated expanded metal pieces for you to install.

Clear as mud?

Well...

What would you consider a "groovy" wood? I've got some nice oak and walnut both here now, but have access to all sorts of stuff. You want the whole thing done in hardwood, or just the face, or just the carcass and do a complementary face cover in some sort of tolex-type material? What kind of finish on the hardwood?

According to the drawing, the thing IS 8 1/8" deep. Then, judging by the picture, the front panel is inset a bit, which is not shown on the drawing. For the record, I think it'll make for a better finished look if it is inset a bit.  Also, I'd like to make it just a tad wider, maybe an inch or so, to match up to standard rack width cabinets. Finally, what about the corners? Metal corner protectors kinda take away from the high-end look of a hardwood cabinet, but without them moving the amps around will beat the hell out of exposed wooden corners. What do you think?

Finally, there are no mounting holes called out for the chassis. Do you just run some wood screws in through some ears, or what? Is there a chassis drawing available?



Kay,

1 - walnut would be great.  some kind of satin clear finish would be fine.  A waxed finish might be kind of nice with lots of grain showing.
2 - I think the entire amp should be wood.  Would be interesting if the front and back panels were a different complementary color (this was kind of the mayfly thing), but not really necessary.
3 - Looking at the drawing again, yep I did include the extra 1/8" - didn't look at it closely last night.  Remember - I drew these almost 10 years ago!
4 - Yep, the front and back panels are inset.
5 - Wider?  sure.
6 - Corners?  Naw - not on a hardwood amp.  Would detract from the look.
7 - the chassis is mounted with blind rivet nuts attached to the chassis and are then bolted from below.  I'll take care of drilling the appropriate holes.
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Cagey
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« Reply #40 on: July 04, 2010, 07:31:18 am »

1 - walnut would be great.  some kind of satin clear finish would be fine.  A waxed finish might be kind of nice with lots of grain showing.
2 - I think the entire amp should be wood.  Would be interesting if the front and back panels were a different complementary color (this was kind of the mayfly thing), but not really necessary.
3 - Looking at the drawing again, yep I did include the extra 1/8" - didn't look at it closely last night.  Remember - I drew these almost 10 years ago!
4 - Yep, the front and back panels are inset.
5 - Wider?  sure.
6 - Corners?  Naw - not on a hardwood amp.  Would detract from the look.
7 - the chassis is mounted with blind rivet nuts attached to the chassis and are then bolted from below.  I'll take care of drilling the appropriate holes.

Alright, that should be as much as I need to know. I'll get started on it this coming week.
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mayfly
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« Reply #41 on: July 04, 2010, 11:22:56 am »

1 - walnut would be great.  some kind of satin clear finish would be fine.  A waxed finish might be kind of nice with lots of grain showing.
2 - I think the entire amp should be wood.  Would be interesting if the front and back panels were a different complementary color (this was kind of the mayfly thing), but not really necessary.
3 - Looking at the drawing again, yep I did include the extra 1/8" - didn't look at it closely last night.  Remember - I drew these almost 10 years ago!
4 - Yep, the front and back panels are inset.
5 - Wider?  sure.
6 - Corners?  Naw - not on a hardwood amp.  Would detract from the look.
7 - the chassis is mounted with blind rivet nuts attached to the chassis and are then bolted from below.  I'll take care of drilling the appropriate holes.

Alright, that should be as much as I need to know. I'll get started on it this coming week.


Cool!

er, should we talk price?
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Cagey
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« Reply #42 on: July 04, 2010, 03:36:32 pm »

Certainly not where the kids can hear us. But, I'm thinking $124,285.00 each. After all, amps don't build themselves <grin>

Seriously, I gotta think on it, and right now I'm supposed to be grilling burgers. Some sort of holiday. So, I'll get back to you.
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mayfly
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« Reply #43 on: July 04, 2010, 04:44:18 pm »

Certainly not where the kids can hear us. But, I'm thinking $124,285.00 each. After all, amps don't build themselves <grin>

Seriously, I gotta think on it, and right now I'm supposed to be grilling burgers. Some sort of holiday. So, I'll get back to you.

Groovy.
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mayfly
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« Reply #44 on: July 17, 2010, 04:55:16 pm »

Folks,

Another used Mayfly BC30 has appeared on the market:

http://www.spacemanmusic.com/Amps/Tube+Amps/Mayfly+BC-30+Head+with+Cabinet

It's priced pretty cheap especially since a cab is included. 

Here's yer chance to get one if you want one!
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