I put some in a mixing cup, add water, and stir, ...and stir, ...and stir. And, yes, very smelly. But, thankfully, not noxious fumes like the classic oil-based fillers.
If it's a an opaque finish, many builders just use thinned drywall compound.
I use the water-based grain filler these days (been buying Goodfilla). Water-based requires more work than the old oil-based stuff because it shrinks back more, but I don't have to worry about dangerous fumes and rags randomly bursting into flames.
Many people praise Z-pooxy, I plan to give it...
These were the options in the old Warmoth printed catalogs (to give full credit, posted by @Unwound G in this thread in 2012).
I remember these options in the '90s and early '00s, it's been 20 years, I'm not sure if they offer them off-menu anymore. A lot of options (and I assume equipment) has...
This one is pretty much as narrow as it gets...
https://warmoth.com/sfmh1
Note...
It will retrofit a vintage Fender hardtail bridge, but it only gets you to 2-1/8". If you really want 2-1/16", then it's best to plug the old holes and drilling new mounting and string-thru holes,
Go with a steel pole piece pickup, like the Fralin Steel Pole 43 or Harmonic Design Super 90.
The Quarter Pounder has large pole-pieces but they are still magnetic rods and will always have the bright cut.
I have a set of files and have cut my own bone nuts. But it always takes me 3-4 blanks to get one I'm satisfied with. It's the thing I'm worst at on builds. Cutting you own Tusq nut is easier, it's a much more consistent, predictable material.
Much easier to pay for someone to cut a new nut...
Is the neck finished? If so, I would let it acclimate. Honestly, I err of the side of caution, so I would either way. My bodies and necks usually sit around for a couple of months after I've sprayed them before I wetsand and buff.
This. The Gibson neck angle, a throwback to the acoustic and jazzbox days, won't work with a traditional , flush hardtail or trem bridge. That's why the '80s Gibsons used those awkward Kahlers. Plus, the TOM is Gibson bridge o' choice and vintage spec is what sells for Gibson and Epiphone.
If...
The TL-DR frame...but I think it's better to watch the video and see each body by itself. The differences will seem more extreme when compared side-to-side because ... perception. I'm a big fan of Aaron's videos showing these subtle differences.
They usually have some (depending on what body wood you want), but the Showcase sale has been going on since Dec. 8, a lot of things have been picked over.
A pickguard would be required, but also would easy hide the over routing.
I use the 18:1 Klusons on my builds. Yes, there are 20% more twists to wind, but beyond that, but to just stay in tune it's no more work. Plus, the Saf-T-Posts mean only ~2-3 windings per tuner anyway.
I use Uncle Nerky. I can tell he prints in black and then back fills any metallic color with paint pens, but the color is nice and uniform on the front. Not sure how he does the tortoise ones, must be printed.
https://unclenerkysdecals.company.site/
I pick neck woods based on ...
Feel
Looks
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Perceived tone
It's not that I believe there is no difference, but I believe 90% of tonewood bias is the placebo effect. Hearing is not objective, but is all sensory perception, and I don't believe any difference is as big...
Typically, if they use North American lumber, to make something sold in North America, then it'll be cheaper to manufacture in North America.
It's not cost effective to ship North American lumber to Asia to be processed into something just to it ship back to North America. Lumber is big, heavy...
Ah, yes, they became infamous for their — to paraphrase Aristotle — "the sum of the parts is worth more than the whole" business model. They made a small fortune by buying vintage Fenders, taking them apart, and selling all the parts separately. I think many people realized long time ago vintage...
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