Hello, new member here. I recently bought my second Warmoth neck, a fatback strat model, maple with rw fingerboard, and have begun applying a finish to it. I chose to use Deft clear nitro spray and I now have about 12 coats on it. I've been doing quite a bit of reading here on the forums but still have a few questions. From what i have read, I should let the laquer cure for about 4 weeks before proceeding to level sand it. Would it be satisfactory to wet sand at 1000 grit and then go right to the polishing stage? I saw a guy on youtube finish a guitar body this way http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIX9XB-f7c, but i figured i would get some input from people here. Also, what would be a good polishing compound to use, and could I do the polishing by hand instead of buying a buffer?
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Cagey
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What Pabloman said. The paper will cut faster than the polishing compound, so you want to get as close to done as you can before you start with the polishing compound. Also, you don't necessarily need a buffer. You could get away with a variable speed drill motor and a couple buffing pads. Save you a lotta time.
The reason powered buffers exist is twofold. First, because the polishing compound is very fine so it cuts very slowly. You need a way to get a lot of buffing done in a reasonable length of time. Second, they're generally designed to make it easier to handle the thing. Drill motors are for short bursts where aiming is important. Buffers are less precise, and so are designed to be easier to handle. Plus, drill motors usually aren't designed for long duty cycles, while buffers are, so you won't burn up a buffer as fast as you will a drill motor. But, for occasional use, a drill motor will work.
Doing it by hand is possible, but you'll develop Schwarzenegger forearms by the time you're done. Plus, the time thing.
The reason powered buffers exist is twofold. First, because the polishing compound is very fine so it cuts very slowly. You need a way to get a lot of buffing done in a reasonable length of time. Second, they're generally designed to make it easier to handle the thing. Drill motors are for short bursts where aiming is important. Buffers are less precise, and so are designed to be easier to handle. Plus, drill motors usually aren't designed for long duty cycles, while buffers are, so you won't burn up a buffer as fast as you will a drill motor. But, for occasional use, a drill motor will work.
Doing it by hand is possible, but you'll develop Schwarzenegger forearms by the time you're done. Plus, the time thing.
Thanks guys for that info. I think i will try to figure a way to use power tools instead of by hand. Do you have any recommendations for a polishing compound? My local stores carry a bunch of stuff by Meguires and if i could get away with using one of those that would be easy enough, but if you recommend something better i could also buy online if needed.
Cagey
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You might want to see the results I got with just raw wood by going to finer grits of paper. No finish at all, just wood. There's a thread here.
As for what compounds to use, I've heard nothing but good stuff about Meguire's offerings, although I can't tell you a specific product to use and they've got a lot of them. Maybe Tonar will chime in here. I've used the stuff StewMac sells to good effect, but I'm not sure it's the best. Seems a bit thin, and I end up throwing a lot of it around. I spend more time cleaning up after using it than I do buffing.
As for what compounds to use, I've heard nothing but good stuff about Meguire's offerings, although I can't tell you a specific product to use and they've got a lot of them. Maybe Tonar will chime in here. I've used the stuff StewMac sells to good effect, but I'm not sure it's the best. Seems a bit thin, and I end up throwing a lot of it around. I spend more time cleaning up after using it than I do buffing.
